STYLE PROVENANCE

The Evolution of The Peacoat

WWII-era peacoat via The Major’s Tailor

1966 Collection via YSL

A cornerstone of naval tradition and one of menswear’s most enduring silhouettes, the peacoat traces back to 18th-century seafaring nations.

Its name likely comes from the Dutch word pij—a coarse wool cloth used for garments built to endure life at sea. Early versions, called pijjakkers, were short, functional jackets built for utility: a high collar to block biting winds, a cropped length for freedom of movement, and a double-breasted front to stand firm against shifting weather.

By the early 1800s, the Royal Navy had formally adopted the peacoat, followed by the French and U.S. navies. It was issued to enlisted sailors, while officers donned the formal bridge coats.The six-button fouled anchor closure became a naval signature, though modern civilian versions are often pared back and plain.

Like many garments of military origin, the peacoat eventually crossed into civilian life. In the 1920s, as women gained greater economic independence and a stronger presence in the workforce, Coco Chanel borrowed from naval uniforms to introduce menswear-inspired outerwear into women’s wardrobes. Decades later, Yves Saint Laurent revived the peacoat, cementing its iconic status. From artists, actors, and writers, the peacoat became shorthand for understated cool.

Today, the peacoat remains unchanged at its core: a working jacket built for the sea, and a timeless emblem of craft, heritage, and quiet authority.

Camplin

Ron Galella Collection