STYLE PROVENANCE
Oilskins to Gore-Tex
Foul weather gear—the unsung armor against Mother Nature. It began in 1898 when New Zealander Edward Le Roy, in a stroke of ingenuity, took old sailcloth, linseed oil, and wax, and created a material that was somewhat waterproof. The catch? It was stiff, stained everything with a yellowish hue, and didn’t last long.
By the early 20th century, Le Roy’s innovative material caught on in Europe. The iconic Barbour Ursula suit, worn by the Royal Navy, became a staple. Post-WWII, the surplus Ursula suits found their way into yacht racing hands, extending their usefulness beyond wartime. Meanwhile, fishermen swapped heavy oil-coated cotton for vinyl. But, as expected, the vinyl still needed a coating to prevent ocean spray.
The 1960s brought fiberglass boatbuilding and a boom in recreational yacht racing, pushing for more accessible gear that didn’t require thick layers of oil. Sailors also wanted to look good. We can’t blame them.
In Concarneau, Guy Cotten outfitted fishermen with lightweight, durable plastic gear. The result? It lasted three times longer and was more comfortable for long days at sea. A few years later, Yvon Hémery, manager of the Rosbras-Brigneau sailing school near Concarneau, asked Cotten how he would design foul weather gear for sailing. The solutions? Pants, vests with zippers, and other functional upgrades designed with sport in mind.
Across the Channel, Henri Lloyd pioneered breathable waterproof fabrics, a precursor to Gore-Tex—ushering in the modern era of performance sailing wear.
What started as essential gear evolved into a civilian staple. And the bright colors? Both practical and sartorial, with the classic yellow slicker a nod to its linseed oil roots.