STYLE PROVENANCE

The Maritime Origins of Denim

Original USN Gunner Smock

Early Cold War-era USN Dungaree Trousers

Denim and sailing—hardly a natural pairing. Or so you’d think. But history disagrees.

Today, denim is a staple of modern life. You can thank Levi Strauss for that. During the California Gold Rush, he supplied miners with tough workwear. In 1873, Strauss patented the design for a cool $69—about $1,800 in 2025. Not a bad investment.

But denim originated long before Levi. It traces back to two cities: Nîmes, France, and Genoa, Italy. Technically speaking, the Genoese made “jeans.” The French made “denim”— translated from “de Nîmes.” The Nîmes weavers stumbled upon denim by accident in the late 17th century. While trying to replicate a prized textile called serge, they produced something coarser—stiff, rugged, and perfect for hard labor. The fabric’s durability made it ideal for outerwear—smocks, overalls, and other work garments.

Meanwhile, in Genoa, textile workers spun a fabric from indigo-dyed wool and cotton. The bustling port city embraced it for its durability and low cost. Shipbuilders, merchants, and sailors took to it instantly. It was used for sailcloth, and eventually, clothing. Sailors favored it for a simple reason: wet or dry, it held up.

By the early 1900s, the U.S. Navy had denim in their arsenals—bell bottoms in 1901, dungarees in 1913. The first deck jumper? Heavyweight denim. Through two world wars, denim stayed in the ranks—unfazed by wear and tear.

Levi’s may have made denim famous, but sailors contributed to its global influence. Off duty, they wore their blue jeans everywhere—and people noticed. By the mid-20th century, denim wasn’t just workwear anymore. It was a wardrobe essential.

And while other fabrics became better suited for the water, sailors still sported denim when yachting — Éric Tablarly was a staunch advocate and Swede Pelle Peterson is photographed sporting blue jeans aboard “Sverige” with King Carl XVI Gustav of Sweden at the helm, no less.

Sure, denim may be frowned upon in the halls of decorum. But denim is more than just fabric—so why not break a few rules to celebrate its history?

Shop the no denim cap