STYLE PROVENANCE

The Rugby Shirt’s Sailing Heritage

The Victory ‘83 team training in Nassau, The Bahamas (1982), photograph via British Vogue

L'Esprit d'équipe team (1985)

The origins of the rugby in yacht racing are not precisely documented, though the shirt’s popularity amongst sailors owes much to its durability and versatility.

Originally crafted for rugby players in the early 1830s, the shirt was made of heavy cotton to meet the physical demands of the sport. Bold stripes and team colors helped distinguish players from afar. These practical elements seamlessly translated to the water. The fabric was breathable and resilient, ideal for withstanding wear and tear.

As the classic rugby shirt gained traction, it became synonymous with the 1960s and 1970s prep culture and “Ivy League style.” American sportswear brands like GANT took note; 1980 advertisements featured America’s Cup teams donning the style. Gary Jobson of Courageous regularly sported a rugby around Newport.

In 1979, British yachtsman Peter de Savary led the British challenger team for the 1983 America’s Cup. Determined to give the Victory crew a unified image, he sent the boat manager, Jim Alabaster, to Lilywhites in London, where Alabaster purchased blue and yellow striped rugby shirts. This set a precedent for uniforms.


Australia II’s yellow and green rugbies are forever associated with their victory. In the 1989-90 Whitbread Round the World Race, the winning crew of Steinlager II wore teal and pink shirts that perfectly matched the hull’s color.

Yes, the rugged practicality remains at the core of its longevity, but it doesn’t hurt that they are simply cool.

Australia II Team at The America's Cup Press Conference (Newport, 1983)

Ted Turner and Gary Jobson aboard Courageous (Newport, 1977)

Gant advertisement